Taking care of your child’s wardrobe can often feel like a full-time job. From keeping tabs on what they’ll wear when they grow up and what they’ll need for the next season, to remembering what they’ll and won’t wear (“No, Mommy!, no pants!”), dressing your little one can be fraught with complications. Now, in addition to considering the form and function of children’s clothing, Alden Wicker’s new book, To Dye For, has left many parents wondering if their children’s clothing actually affects their health as well.
Through an in-depth investigative report, Wick’s new book explores the unregulated use of toxic chemicals in textile and apparel production, the lasting harm they can cause, and what steps individuals can take to protect themselves and work for change.
What Was Found in the Clothes
In her chilling exposé, Wick lists dozens of toxic chemicals found on clothing, from little-known alkylphenol ethoxylates (APEOs) and restricted azo dyes, to chemicals such as formaldehyde and per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances, commonly known as PFAS. They are linked to everything from cancer to immunosuppression. While many parents may have become accustomed to checking for substances like bisphenol A (BPA) in water bottles and other household items, through Wicker’s research, we’ve found that these chemicals can be found everywhere – from school uniforms to the bedding we sleep in.
“Formaldehyde is intentionally used in wrinkle-resistant shirts and bedding,” Wick shared in an email. “PFAS, a class of chemicals linked to cancer, reproductive disorders, obesity, and immunosuppression, are deliberately added to repel water and stains – they have been found in tests of children’s clothing and uniforms. Disperse dyes are used to dye polyester, and these are definitely added intentionally, although they are common skin sensitizers.”
Accidental Contamination or Intentional Use?
Even if the use of these toxins is limited by garment manufacturing, contamination can be caused by accidental exposure to other environmental sources of these toxins, such as shipping containers or cross-contamination with other products in the factory, Wicker said. But more often, these toxins are deliberately used to provide clothes with different desirable properties (such as anti-wrinkle or anti-stain).
“Some of the chemicals used […] It should be stripped later in the manufacturing process, but sometimes it doesn’t happen completely,” she noted, explaining how “accidental” contamination can occur.
“Some dyeers and factories are sloppy and there is cross-contamination between product runs. Or they use dyes that contain heavy metals such as lead or arsenic, which they are told not to use, but use anyway because they are cheaper or brighter. Sometimes, insecticides are used in warehouses or on container ships, such as the highly toxic chlordane, which has been banned in the United States since the 80s of the last century and can seep into clothing.”
Dr. Joseph M. Braun, an associate professor in the Department of Epidemiology at Brown University, noted that when a product or item is treated with chemicals such as phthalates, flame retardants, and PFAS, one of the biggest risks comes from “venting” or “leaching” into our environment.
“The process is insidious,” he notes, “especially for products that stay in our homes for a long time (such as sofas).” A short-term example would be buying a new mattress or rug. There will be an odor for the first few days because you notice that there is initially a “significant” amount of chemical escaping from the product. But many chemicals are still present in carpets or mattresses and then slowly “leak” out.
Exposure to Toxic Chemicals Can Have Lifelong Consequences
While many of us may take it for granted that many chemicals and synthetics are needed to make the clothes we wear every day, the unregulated use of these particularly toxic chemicals is troubling, especially when used in the production of children’s clothing.
The consequences of exposure can be mild (Wick notes that one of the most common complaints she hears from parents is that children have rashes and eczema) or they can be severe.
“Children are definitely at higher risk,” Wick said. “They have smaller bodies, so they need a much lower dose to have an effect. In addition, they tend to stuff their clothes in their mouths or crawl around in the dust of their homes and put the dust in their mouths.”
Dr. Braun noted that exposure to toxic chemicals, especially phthalates, can affect children even before they are born. Dr. Braun, in collaboration with colleagues, has analysed sixteen different studies exploring the side effects of phthalate exposure, recently revealing troubling consequences for pregnant mothers.
“There is substantial evidence that exposure to phthalates during pregnancy increases the risk of preterm birth (i.e., delivery before 37 weeks) by 12-16%,” he says.
When it comes to direct exposure, endocrine disruptors, or chemicals that affect hormones, are especially harmful to young children, Wick noted.
“Just a very small amount can interfere with a child’s development,” she stressed. “There will be consequences for a lifetime.”
What to Do if You Suspect Your Child Is Reacting
Dr. Braun noted that in a perfect world, consumers wouldn’t try to determine if the product you buy would cause you harm.
“Ideally, governments should develop and enforce regulations to reduce exposure to these harmful substances,” he noted. “It is unreasonable to assume that individual consumers can avoid the use of these substances, and manufacturers tend to take the path of least resistance when it comes to self-regulation.”
Thankfully, despite the severe lack of oversight and regulation in providing these protections to consumers, households can still take steps to limit their exposure risk.
Wick specifically points out some steps parents can take to avoid exposure to toxins through clothing, especially if they suspect that something in their child’s wardrobe is causing a reaction.
Go to nature
When it comes to the materials used in children’s clothing, Wick advises parents to stick to natural fibers as much as possible.
“The best parents can do is buy clothes made from natural fibers like cotton, linen, modal or tencel, as they tend to have fewer dangerous finishes,” she said. “It helps to buy a certified organic product because it means that the product has been shipped through a certified organic factory.”
Wick advises that if you notice a reaction, make changes immediately to see if it works.
“If your child develops a rash where clothing comes into contact with it, try dressing them in undyed, unprinted cotton clothing for a few weeks to see if that helps.”
Be frugal
Buying second-hand clothesWhile it may feel a little impractical for many families to try to build an entire wardrobe with GOTS certified fabrics, there are many benefits to visiting your local thrift store for second-hand children’s clothing or accepting second-hand clothes. – Down the project.
“Buying second-hand also helps, as it means that the piece has been cleaned several times and has time to vent gases or release certain volatile organic compounds,” Wick shares. “But the real value of buying second-hand is in buying high-quality natural fibre children’s clothing at a better price.”
As with any new clothes, don’t forget to wash everything with a scent-free cleaner before using it, especially if your second-hand clothes are from a home that uses scented cleaners. Wick notes that the chemicals used to create these odors can also be toxic and remain in the fabric for quite some time.
Choose a brand that is committed to safety
If possible, if you choose to buy new clothes for your child, research which brands are committed to safe production practices. Wicker noted that many big brands (such as Levi’s, Nike, Vans, H&M, Adidas, New Balance, Old Navy, and Target’s own brands) have strong chemical management programs and can be a smart choice for parents looking to make more informed decisions about what their children wear.
Looking to the Future
Although industry regulations remain fairly lenient when it comes to educating and protecting consumers and workers, there are many things the United States can do to ensure the health and safety of the people who buy and produce these products.
Wick noted that a key step might be to limit or ban known toxins in the production of clothing products, rather than trying to test each individual subset.
Wick also advocates for more funding for testing and a European-style regulatory system that registers chemicals and provides information about their use before products are placed on the market, although she admits this is unlikely.
“How likely is that?” Wick asked. “Well, we haven’t made much progress since the 80s of the 20th century, and the chemical industry really keeps us from protecting our children. For example, the American Chemistry Council is suing the EPA for a draft proposal that says formaldehyde is carcinogenic, which we know to be true.”
In looking for a solution to this universal problem, Wick stressed that what is really needed is “a complete overhaul of the way chemicals are managed in our country”.